The attic is an indispensable thing in the house. There you can store your belongings, various items, appliances, old toys, suitcases, and much more.
You need to carefully monitor the condition of your attic, otherwise there may be problems due to poor attic insulation at the whole house. For example, the temperature in the house may decrease significantly or mold and water heat flow or heat escapes may form due to increased humidity. Isolation also helps to maintain energy efficiency. It is necessary to insulate the attic from the penetration of moisture and cold wind.
To insulate your attic well, you need to know how much material to buy. So, what is an attic insulation calculator?
Calculating insulation requirements
The Attic Insulation Calculator is a simple mathematical formula that will help you make all the necessary calculations for insulation. It is necessary to insulate the attic from the penetration of moisture and cold wind.
Attic insulation consists in sealing all the cracks and holes in the attic that can lead to problems. They can reduce the thermal heat flow. Without proper and with loose fill insulation in winter, you will freeze.
To use the formula, you need to do the following three steps:
#1 Measure your attic
It is quite simple to calculate the volume of the attic room. To do this, you need to know the following parameters: the length, height and width of the sides of the roof. If the construction of a residential building has just begun and it is not possible to manually measure the dimensions of the roof, then you can use the data that are the basis of the building project. The length, width and height of the sides of the roof are multiplied among themselves, and the resulting figure will be the volume of the attic room.
#2 Measure current insulation levels
If your attic is not insulated, you don’t have the old insulation to measure. But if you have existing insulate, measure your attic insulation by measuring the distance from the attic floor to the top of your insulate. With this information in hand, you will know how much additional attic insulation you may need to improve energy efficiency.
If you are not sure how much more attic insulation you will need, refer to the Department of Energy’s insulation table. Follow their link to determine your climate zone.
|CLIMATE ZONE||UNINSULATED ATTIC||3-4 INCHES OF EXISTING ATTIC INSULATION||UNINSULATED FLOOR||UNINSULATED WOOD-FRAME WALL||INSULATED WOOD FRAME WALL|
|1||R30–R49||R19–R38||R13||R13 or R0 + R10 CI*||N/A|
|2||R49–R60||R38–R49||R13||R13 or R0 + R10 CI||N/A|
|3||R49–R60||R38–R49||R19||R20 or R13 + R5 CI or R0 + R15 CI||Add R5 CI|
|4 EXCEPT MARINE||R60||R49||R19||R20 + R5 CI or R13 + R10 CI or R0 + R15 CI||Add R10 CI|
|4 MARINE AND 5||R60||R49||R30||R20 + R5 CI or R13 + R10 CI or R0 + R15 CI||Add R10 CI|
|6||R60||R49||R30||R20 + R5 CI or R13 + R10 CI or R0 + R20 CI||Add R10 CI|
|7 AND 8||R60||R49||R38||R20 + R5 CI or R13 + R10 CI or R0 + R20 CI||Add R10 CI|
In order to eventually make the amount of calculated material needed, you need to divide the square meters of the attic into square meters of insulation project in the manufacturer’s packaging (only if the material is packed in the form of bits or rolls). This way you can calculate how much material you need. Now you can make everything yourself.
Beyond square footage: calculating insulation needs by material
Pergamon is an inexpensive option (the index – 70 mg/m.sq./day) for household structures with a stable level of humidity. Its pros and cons: it perfectly prevents the penetration of moisture, but has low air conductivity.
Polypropylene or polyethylene films (often reinforced; 3-5 mg/m square per day). This material tolerates temperature fluctuations well; it is resistant to physical effects and ultraviolet radiation. Ideal for wooden structures. Polyethylene is suitable for warm regions of the country: at low temperatures it quickly loses its properties. The disadvantage of polyethylene is that it breaks easily, so it’s hard to stack it.
Polypropylene film is stronger than polyethylene; it can be produced with additives of viscose and cellulose, which makes it stronger and more hygroscopic. Its downside: when installing it, good ventilation of the room is required, otherwise, the water accumulating on the insulator will not be able to evaporate. Read more about Condensation in the attic and How to prevent it: DIY.
Membranes having a foil shell (0.04−2.55 mg/m.kv per day) is an option for houses with high humidity and frequent temperature changes (baths, swimming pools, etc.). Withstand high temperatures and well prevent the passage of steam.
- foil is easy to lay, but not resistant to microorganisms; poor hygroscopic indicators with dacron coating for very high temperature indicators (ideal for saunas and baths), but does not tolerate the effects of cleaning chemicals.
- fiberglass with a foil shell is considered the best of the insulation material; the disadvantage is the high cost.
Foiled Fiberglass Anti-condensate diffusion membranes (3-15 mg/m. kv per day) are a novelty in vapor barrier; installation is possible from any side of the thermal insulation layer.
The stuff is double-sided: the rough side fits into the flowing air vapor, the smooth side does not allow water inside.
All membrane vapor barriers are able to pass moist air only in one direction, which ensures rapid outflow of water and good air exchange throughout the room. Good ventilation is also required when installing membranes.
Liquid vapor barrier stuff are varnishes and mastics. After application, a film is formed that retains water, but passes air. Plus, it practically negates the possibility of mold or fungus. Minus: not all means, due to their composition, can be used in residential buildings. Liquid hydro-vapor barrier.
Modern new coatings — an analogue of lacquers and mastics, having similar properties to them; used for vapor barrier of the ceiling from the side of a cold attic space or a flat roof.
Many are also concerned about the cost of all insulation. Let’s see how to do the calculation.
You need to divide the thickness of the stuff in meters by its thermal conductivity. R-values are always measured in feet. And, the higher R-values, the better it will reduce the heat flow.
The R-value can be different for everyone, so make calculations yourself and, based on the data you know, carry out all the work.
You can also use a special calculator for desired R-value. It shows the approximate cost of work and materials based on their location and other features and it will help to make the insulation R-value. In many ways, the price depends on your place of residence and the quality of the insulation materials.
To use the calculator, you need:
- house size: enter the dimensions of your house;
- insulation type: choose fiberglass cellulose;
- areas for insulation: choose if you need to insulate the attic space, + exterior walls or ceiling.
Further, depending on the previously made choices, you may see the following lines:
- number of floors: specify the desired number of floors that you want to isolate;
- attic R-value: select the thickness of the insulation material;
- patch walls: specify who will make the patch walls.
Depending on the last item, the price tag may remain, or it may increase significantly. It depends on who will do all the work. If you do it yourself, then you only pay for the materials and delivery, and if a worker does it, then you will have to costs for the work.
- wall stud size: indicate the depth of the wall stud. This will help you determine how many materials are needed for insulation in heat attics.
How much insulation cost per square meter
|Area (at 38 R-value)||Blown-in insulation Cost||Closed Cell Spray Foam Costs|
How much does blown-in insulation cost
So we talked about isolation. We found out what materials it can be made of and how to make the required amount. Let’s now look at how much the insulated energy job will cost in general.
Blown-in insulation is one of the best ways to insulate. Blown-in insulation is cost-effective, easy to install and operate. You do not need to spend extra energy and nerves on its blown in installation and purchase.
The average check for blown in insulation work varies between $3240-5260. This amount is calculated for a house of approximately 2,000 square feet. It is taken into account that there will be 13 R-value and 38 R-value. Fiberglass blown-in insulation will cost an additional $750-900.
Let’s make in more detail about blown-in:
- 1 sq.ft. of cellulose insulation with a size of 2*4 square footage, cellulose costs $ 1.0 on average for attic and walls.
- 1 sq.ft of fiberglass insulation, size 2* 4 square footage costs $ 1.2 for attic and walls.
- 1 sq.ft of spray foam insulation with thickness costs an average of $2.5 for attic and walls.
Recall that it was 13-38R.
Next, consider options with 60 R-value or more:
- 1 sq. ft. of cellulose with a thickness of 16.2 inches, cellulose costs around $ 2.3 for the attic and walls.
- 1 sq. ft. of fiberglass, 20” 1 inch thick, stands around $ 3.0 for the attic and walls.
- 1 sq. ft. of spray foam insulation with a thickness of 8.5 energy costs $6.5 for the attic and walls.
As you can see, prices vary depending on the thickness of the stuff and the composition of the stuff for attic and walls. Choose the one that suits you best. So, spray foam seems to be the best tool. It covers the walls in the best way possible. The advantages at the spray foam, warmth is preserved in the attic and throughout the house. Despite its costs, we recommend using spray foam. For more, visit How Much Does Spray Foam Insulation Cost. It is also fire resistant.
Here’s a video tutorial by Knauf North America:
FAQ about What an Attic Insulation Calculator Is
How do you calculate insulation area?
You can make the volume in different ways, but it will be better and more reliable through a special insulation calculator. You enter all the necessary data into the calculator and the calculator itself gives you the required amount of insulation in attics stuff. You just have to purchase it and make all the necessary repairs.
Such calculators make the r value.
How do you calculate insulation cost?
It is possible to make the cost of insulation in attics based on previously obtained data. After you have counted the required amount of materials. Divide the resulting number by the number of meters in one roll of material. This way you will get the required number of rolls with materials. After that, multiply the number of rolls by their cost. If you are going to produce yourself, then congratulations, your expenses are over, but if you hire workers, then be prepared to pay a considerable amount for it.
Conclusion: What is an attic insulation calculator
The attic insulation should be very good so that many problems can be avoided. Loose fill insulation can cause mold, humidity, loss of temperature degrees, etc. When calculating, do not forget to take into account the errors and higher r values.
We hope that we were able to answer the question of how much insulation of the attic costs, as well as other questions of interest to you.